Numerical Model of Breaking Regular Wave Runup Propagation by Using 1D Boussinesq Equation

Boussinesq Equation main figure
Yuliarko Sukardi

B.E. Ocean Engineering
Institute Technology of Bandung

M. Eng. Coastal Engineering
University of Tokyo



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Numerical Model of Breaking Regular Wave Runup Propagation by Using 1D Boussinesq Equation
This study is concerned with the development of a high-order numerical model to solve incompressible water wave motion based on improved nonlinear dispersive Boussinesq equations. A third-order Adams-Bashforth and a fourth-order Adams-Mouton predictor-corrector scheme was selected in an attempt to eliminate the truncation error terms that would be of the same form as the dispersive terms in the Boussinesq equations with second order schemes as in many other studies.
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Abstract


This study is concerned with the development of a high-order numerical model to solve incompressible water wave motion based on improved nonlinear dispersive Boussinesq equations. A third-order Adams-Bashforth and a fourth-order Adams-Mouton predictor-corrector scheme was selected in an attempt to eliminate the truncation error terms that would be of the same form as the dispersive terms in the Boussinesq equations with second order schemes as in many other studies.

Eddy viscosity type momentum correction term was added into the Boussinesq equation to simulate the energy loss due to wave breaking and to extend the model application to surf zone wave transformation. The location of the breaking point was determined through a wave breaking criterion using the ratio of horizontal water particle velocity to wave celerity.

A moving boundary technique utilizing linear extrapolation is developed to investigate wave runup and rundown. Wave absorption at an open boundary was simulated by solving the Sommerfeld radiation and introducing sponge layer into the model.

Breaking regular wave runup propagation on a sloping beach is simulated. It would seem that inclusion of an accurate dissipation term becomes increasingly important with increasing degree of wave breaking. In regard to breaking regular wave runup simulation, additional dissipation term acted as bottom friction was required for long term stability in surf zone area. The validity of the model was confirmed by comparing computations with analytical solutions and measured data.


BOUSSINESQ EQUATION's CONTENT


Abstract

Introduction

Boussinesq-type Equation

Wave Breaking Model

Wave Runup Model

Numerical Methodology

Wave Propagation Modeling

- Simulation of Non-breaking Regular Wave Propagation on a Constant Depth

- Simulation of Non-breaking Regular Wave Propagation on a Sloping Beach up to Breaking Location

- Simulation of Breaking Regular Wave Propagation on a Sloping Beach up to Very Shallow Water Depth

- Simulation of Non-breaking Regular Wave Runup Propagation on a Sloping Beach

- Simulation of Breaking Regular Wave Runup Propagation on a Sloping Beach


Conclusions and Recommendations

References



Joseph Valentin Boussinesq
He (born March 13, 1842 in Saint-André-de-Sangonis (Hérault département), died February 19, 1929 in Paris) was a French mathematician and physicist who made significant contributions to the theory of hydrodynamics, vibration, light, and heat.

Master Research
This study was supported by the Asian Development Bank-Japan Scholarship Program.
Numerical Model of Breaking Regular Wave Runup Propagation by Using 1D Boussinesq Equation



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